We were surrounded by an array of floral lanterns, and torches cast stark shadows across the Do River. It was a cool night and a breeze rustled across the water which was aglow with floating lanterns and scattered with flower garlands. With the sky visible and the night not overwrought with the honking of horns and the smell of engine smog, we found ourselves wonderfully relaxed. We had managed to escape the throngs of city traffic to find the calming respite of the Hoi An Riverside Resort & Spa in Hoi An.

We arrived embroiled in the brutal summer heat of Quang Nam, which all but dissipated as we pushed through the resort’s gate and were greeted by the flowers and the lush green trees surrounding the resort. The whole place was surprisingly quiet upon our arrival, despite its ideal locale. Under the azure sky speckled with the occasional white cloud, men and women bent beneath the sun’s glare, spreading nets across the water in hopes of catching some fish. Ferry-boats passed behind them, moving to and fro between the shadows of coconut trees. The restaurant, which overlooks the river, was filled with a number of guests chatting and laughing over breakfast. But even the hum of conversation seemed a mere hush amidst all that open space.

Occupying a bank along the Do River, the resort offers spectacular views of rice-fields, gardens and riverside hamlets. For those wanting to do more than just relax and dine, the resort also includes a courtyard, a swimming pool, a souvenir shop, a gymnasium, a billiards room and a badminton court. Between resort areas, shaded paths wind their way to guest rooms and hundreds of flowers line the way. White doves can be found prancing and posturing in a small pond nearby.

Room with a view

Oddly, perhaps my favourite part of the resort could be accessed without even having to leave my room. The room featured a small balcony overlooking the rice paddies where a flock of buffaloes grazed in the afternoon sun. Still on work week time, I found myself awake in the mornings by 5:30am, and could watch the sun break over the resort from this perch. And at night while everyone slept, I could unwind watching the moon slide over the coconut trees. Next time, I imagine having a partner and a glass of champagne certainly wouldn’t hurt.

The room’s decor shows Vietnamese, Japanese and French influences. Overall, the resort possesses 60 such rooms, all of which show a marked attention to detail and an interest in natural beauty as is demonstrated by the flower blossoms which are carefully placed on the bed, the towels, and even in the toilet bowl.

Now, the good and bad thing about resorts is that most people rarely visit one with the intention of having exhausting days trucking around and finding new places to eat. This can be very bad, of course, if the resort’s food is not good. But luckily, this particular resort served delicious, beautifully prepared food with unique dishes such as sup toc tien hai san (creamed corn soup with seafood), than nong hoi ngo (stirfried vegetables with garlic). I was also able to taste Quang Nam specialities including my Quang and cao lau.

The staff was pleasant as well. They were always smiling and offering hellos whenever we passed, and their English was good.

My experience was similar to a French guest with whom I spoke named Bertrand Rousseau who was accompanied by his three children. "It’s great to stay here. The ambience is great, and people here are so friendly. We felt as if we were at home," he commented.

With such praise it is not surprising that the resort was recently ranked as one of the 27 best hotels and resorts out of 80,000 worldwide, a list compiled by over 700 travel sources.

Getting away

For those wanting to get away for a spell, the resort also offers river cruises featuring breathtaking views of the sunrise as well as sight-seeing trips along the old town, a world heritage site. The resort will organise special tours to other famous sites nearby.

When we ventured away from the resort, we picked up souvenirs along Cua Dai beach, 1km from the resort, and on Cham Islands. We also dropped in at Brother’s Cafe in Phan Boi Chau Street in the old Hoi An Town which impressed us with its exquisite garden, tasteful decor, relaxed service and culinary delights

We were lucky to be among the thousands of visitors who flock to the ancient town of Hoi An on the 14th night of the lunar month for the full moon festival.

On this night, Hoi An residents collectively turn off their neon lights and hang Chinese lanterns of various shapes, sizes and colours from every conceivable nook and cranny. On these nights, the old world charm of this once flourishing port comes to life. Even with the hustle and bustle of tourism, the old town turns up the charm and romance once the lights go down. Cham songs, traditional dances, children’s theatre and Chinese chess are all fair game under those sparkling lanterns, as Hoi An’s citizens pay homage to their roots.

As for me, I brought home my own lantern which is now suspended from my ceiling. But like all souvenirs, it pales in comparison to the real thing.