Bac Ha in the northern mountainous province of Lao Cai is known for its awe inspiring landscapes and rich cultural life with 14 ethnic minorities in the vicinity. It’s certainly on the map with more than 50,000 international and domestic tourists heading up the mountain road to Bac Ha every year, but the town is yet to have a reputation comparable with Sapa, a place well established as the starting point for tourists exploring the northern extremes of Vietnam.
Of course, Bac Ha is one of the destinations that has fed off the tours coming out of Sapa over the years. But now thanks to its less tourist-influenced market, as well as cool temperatures, Bac Ha is building a solid reputation of its own. After all, there’s no reason why you have to go via Sapa!
The market life of Sapa might also be full of ethnic minorities but in reality it’s far from an authentic market experience. Tourism-savvy locals speak conversational French, English or even a smattering of Japanese. Through the town shops sell “traditional clothes” that have been imported from China while kids follow you through the streets trying to sell Jew’s harps or H’mong hats. Tourist agencies and hotel receptionists constantly try to inveigle you into taking their tours. You can have dinner in an Italian restaurant or a couple of pints in a British bar. Let’s face it, it’s a tourist trap!
Bac Ha, on the other hand, still follows the old patterns of rural life – there’s an atmosphere of remoteness. At the weekly kermis (the market held every Sunday) ethnic minorities from all around the area arrive to do business as normal – buying or selling pigs, vegetables or ruou (liquor) – and often seem oblivious to tourists tip-toeing around.
While Bac Ha is most lauded for its market life, it is also home to the enchanting mansion that belonged to Hoang A Tuong, an infamous local Tay minority lord, who held sway in the region in the early 20th century.
Hoang A Tuong and his father Hoang Yen Chao, thanks to support from French colonialists, ran the surrounding farms in feudalist fashion.
Through the exploitation of the local inhabitants and resources, Hoang A Tuong and his father Hoang Yen Chao got rich. The mansion complex, which survives largely intact, was the fruit of their prosperity and served as both a residence and fortress.
The palatial residence, which is just 300m from the market, was designed by the French and built by Chinese between 1914 and 1921. Nestled amongst the hills and beside a waterfall it is a remarkable blend of European and Asian styles in the most picturesque of settings.
Ha Quoc Trung, director of the Tourism and Trading Department of Bac Ha district, also recommends tourists to take a hike into the valleys beyond to explore the nearby ethnic minority villages.
“Here, people live as they have done for centuries, raising water buffalo and pot-bellied pegs, cultivating paddy, corn and cassava, and weaving clothes,” says Trung. “If you come to Bac Ha in September or October you will be able to witness harvest time and sample the special maize liquor.”
With 14 ethnic minorities including H’Mong, Dzao, Tay and Nung tribes, Bac Ha is a relative melting pot of ethnic cultures.
Various folk festivals thoughout the year are a great way to discover the cultural heritage of Bac Ha’s indigenous population, such as the Bao Ha folk festival in Bao Ha temple, Bao Yen district from August 27 to 29.
Like every other tourist spot in Vietnam, Bac Ha is changing day by day but this is still one of the rare corners of the world where people’s traditions continue to flourish and nature reigns supreme. Long may it stay that way.