“There’s a lot of preparation and works to do before I travel abroad but each time I go I feel a mixture of amazement, nervousness and happiness,” admits Ngan.
The trend to wear and tailor ao dai boomed after the country’s liberation in 1975, as a more modern and image conscious woman emerged in the aftermath of decades-long war.
Around this time tailors famed for ao dai tailoring in Trach Xa village in Ha Tay province packed up their sewing kits and headed to Hanoi. In reference to the village a number of ao dai tailors christened their shops with names such as An Trach, Vinh Trach, Dong Trach or Phuc Trach, which can still be found on Luong Van Can street.
In more recent times with a booming economy and a widespread thirst for cutting edge fashion in Vietnam, ao dai designers have been tinkering with the patterns.
Traditionally a long plain silk dress with two splits and a high buttoned neck, now ao dai can be low necked with flared sleeves, made with clear light materials with a wide variety of decorative patterns which can incorporate sophisticated embroidery, elaborate colour prints or embossed designs.
Though some traditionalists might not be happy others are happy to see risk and innovation with ao dai design. Chatting with shop owners and customers on Luong Van Can street no one is afraid to speak their mind.
“The innovations are meant to improve it. Fashion is basically about constant change and renewal. So no matter how ao dai is renovated, it will not lose its tradition” says a young civil servant Bui Anh Tu.
“Nothing can stay the same forever and redesigning the ao dai is essential,” says Do Tung Hiep, a 26-year old student.
Clearly not everyone agrees.
“Redesigning the ao dai is unnecessary as it is already perfect. To redesign it is to ignore the labours of our ancestors and essence of our country,” says Do Bich Phuong, a 31-year old who lives on Luong Van Can street.
“I feel really disappointed when I go to ao dai shows as it has changed so much. I wish designers would return to the roots of the design and keep it that way,” says Phuoc Anh, a 28-year old Hanoian who studies overseas.
For many observers the beauty of the ao dai is in its traditional elegance and simplicity.
“An overly elaborate ao dai will make decent beauty disappear and women look ridiculous,” says Phi Long, a 28-year old from Hanoi
“I’m afraid that if the innovation continues, Vietnamese people will not be able to recognise the ao dai someday,” says Thao Nhi, a 25-year old student.
All in all, it seems more customers showed a preference for the traditional ao dai, not just when giving their opinion but also in terms of sales.
“Our shop sells a lot of dresses during important national events, such as the recent APEC summit, and most buy traditional designs, especially when meeting international guests,” says Nguyen Anh Dung, the owner of An Trach ao dai shop
Of course, perhaps in this day and age, there’s room for both. While on one hand being an exponent of the more modern ao dai, Ngan An also stresses the importance of maintaining the ideals of the traditional ao dai.
“No matter how we change the ao dai to make it more beautiful, we must not forget its traditional background,” she says. “I would never want to make it strange in the eyes of Vietnam-loving international guests or Viet kieu (overseas Vietnamese). The beauty of a traditional ao dai is what I will be forever entirely engaged in and feel proud of.”